Earlier this year, I had the chance to visit Santa Maria Maggiore, one of Rome’s most beautiful and historically rich basilicas — and honestly, it completely took my breath away despite having visited many times already. I’ve seen my fair share of churches in Italy, but there’s something about this one that feels truly alive — like every inch of it holds a story from centuries past. It's definitely one of my favourites. 

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What Is Santa Maria Maggiore?

Santa Maria Maggiore (also known as the Basilica of Saint Mary Major) is one of the four papal basilicas in Rome and the largest church in the city dedicated to the Virgin Mary. It was built in the 5th century and has been expanded and decorated over the centuries, blending early Christian mosaics with Renaissance and Baroque architecture.

It’s located on the Esquiline Hill, one of Rome’s famous seven hills, not far from Termini Station — making it very easy to reach whether you’re walking or using public transport.

A Special Visit During the Jubilee Year

As it’s a Jubilee Year, I had the rare opportunity to walk through the Holy Door — something that only happens during this sacred celebration. Stepping through it, I felt an incredible sense of peace and connection to history. Even if you’re not religious, the symbolism and atmosphere are deeply moving.

Inside the Basilica: Gold, Mosaics and Majesty

The moment you walk inside, your eyes are drawn upwards. The ceilings are absolutely spectacular — gilded and intricate, glowing in that soft Roman light that makes everything look just a little divine. I found myself staring for ages, completely lost in the detail.

Every surface tells a story: shimmering mosaics from the 5th century, marble columns, and quiet side chapels that invite you to pause. You could go back a million times and still notice something new — a hidden angel, a pattern you hadn’t seen before, a reflection of gold you somehow missed. It’s one of those places that rewards you for slowing down, for just being present.

A Papal Resting Place

Santa Maria Maggiore is not just a site of breathtaking beauty — it’s also a papal resting place. Pope Sixtus V (1585–1590) is buried here, within the grand Sistine Chapel (not to be confused with the one in the Vatican). His tomb, designed by the architect Domenico Fontana, sits beneath a stunning dome that reflects his powerful legacy and devotion to the Church. 

Then more recently, Pope Francis chose to make Santa Maria Maggiore his final resting place. In what feels like a deeply personal decision, he was interred here on 26 April 2025, becoming the first pope in over a century to be buried outside the Vatican. 

His tomb is simple — modest, even. It lies in a burial niche in the side aisle between the Pauline Chapel (which houses the icon Salus Populi Romani) and the Sforza Chapel. The marble headstone bears only the Latin inscription “Franciscus”. Francis had requested that the tomb be “in the earth, simple, without particular decoration,” a reflection of the humility that marked so much of his papacy. 

There are tributes to other popes here too, reminders that this basilica has always been deeply connected to history and tradition. Standing there, I wasn’t thinking about faith so much as time — how many lives and stories have passed through these walls, and how each era has quietly left its mark on this extraordinary place.